Prologue: Our first international travel together
My husband and I have always loved to travel together. But we are like chalk and cheese when it comes to planning the itinerary. He wants to keep it slow and relaxed where breakfasts merge with lunches, hot cups of tea are flowing free, and not a single page of the novel is turned before you realise it is dinner time. I, on the contrary, love to gobble up as many views and places as I can. How we sync our itineraries is still a mystery to me. But we do have one thing in common, which is our love for history. It has led us to Hampi, Ajanta Ellora, Khajuraho, Orchha and many such historical gems within India. So it is no secret why we chose Turkey as our first international destination together. Nowhere else can we see such a beautiful melting pot of Greek, Roman and Islamic architecture and culture.
Day 1 - Overcoming the fears
Visas were easy to come by (a valid US visa of any type can get you a Turkey tourist visa in just 30 minutes through a simple online process). So here we are today packing our bags for a 15 day long adventure. My heart flutters not just with excitement but also with apprehension. There is so much that could go wrong. There are 8 flight trips during the journey - any delays and misses can throw off the travel schedule. It starts raining just before we leave for the airport. Everyone in Bangalore knows that finding a cab even on a sunny day needs luck.
I blame it all on the lockdowns. We have gotten too comfortable to leave our homes. I calm myself and get ready to accept whatever lay ahead. We catch our late night connecting flight from Bangalore to New Delhi where a long immigration queue awaits us. It is almost early morning before we fly across the border.
Day 2 to 4 - When Istanbul weaved its charm
I never believed in falling in love at the first sight. Too much cliche for my practical and sensible self. But boy, I was wrong. The city stood magnificent on the banks of Marmara sea, which is connected to the Black sea by the Bosphorus strait, an important link between the west and the east in the ancient world. Bosphorus cuts Istanbul into two, making it a city with one foot in Asia and the other in Europe.
Our guide Mehmet was a story teller who weaved history with trivias and made the past come alive. We started the first day with the tour of the most famous mosques - The Blue mosque and The Hagia Sophia. The tile paintings on the walls and domes are surely like no other. Hagia Sophia is a fine example of Christianity and Islam coexisting with each other. It is unfortunate that the place has been converted back to a mosque from a museum. The walls have been covered with curtains, and the floor has been covered with carpets to conceal the remnants of the erstwhile church. We continued walking towards the Topkapi Palace, which many Ottoman Sultans called their home before a new palace was built (Dolmabahce, also in Istanbul). The armoury section, which has jewel studded arms and weapons, is worth a visit. The palace grounds and harem offer a beautiful view of the Marmara sea.
In clockwise order staring from top left corner - 1) Hagia Sophia, Istanbul, Turkey; 2) Dome of the Blue Mosque or Sultan Ahmet Mosque, Istanbul, Turkey; 3) View of Marmara Sea from the Topkapi Palace, Istanbul, Turkey; 4) Interior of Hagia Sophia, Istanbul, Turkey
We had lunch at a local kebap salon (place selling kabab and related dishes) with numerous vegetarian options in the buffet. I had a treat.
Our next stop was the Basilica Cistern. The cistern is a huge underground water reservoir and I was told there are many such in the city.
It has a series of steps that take you to the water well below (very much like the Baolis/stepwells found in the Northern India). These cisterns were means of storing and maintaining safe drinking water during war time when the enemy could cut supply or poison it. From there, we walked again to reach the Grand Bazar. The Bazar is a colourful milieu of clothes, spices, lamps, evil eyes, ceramic bowls and carpets, but everything seemed over priced. I would suggest buying from local shops for a better bargain.
The next day was spent exploring the other side of 'Golden horn', the primary inlet of the Bosphorus in Istanbul. Galata Kulesi (tower) is unmissable. It is a former watch tower that is now converted to an exhibition space and museum. It is also one of the well known emblems of Istanbul. You will find its posters, fridge magnets and miniature versions being sold in tourist shops.
But this is not where we started our day. Mehmet met us at the Suleymaniye mosque. I was unsure if another mosque in the itinerary was a good idea, especially when we had already been to the most renowned ones. But he said that this one will exude warmth. And so it did. The mosque was commissioned by Suleiman 'the Magnificent' and designed by the imperial architect Mimar Sinan. It houses the mausoleums of Suleiman and his wife Hurrem Sultan. The colour turquoise, used generously in the tile paintings and the artwork on the domes, walls and windows, is every bit dazzling. I have never seen tombs of such beauty.
Next, we rode to Taksim Square, a place that has witnessed many demonstrations and rebellions. The monument at this square also commemorates the 5th anniversary of the foundation of the Republic of Turkey in 1923. We made our way through the trams, the crowd, the luxury fashion shops and candy shops on the Istikal street to reach the Galata Kulesi. The view from the top is inexplicable. The land merges with the sea with ease, against the backdrop of beautiful mosques and palaces. We trodded back to the old city over the Galata bridge that was dotted with fishermen and restaurants, and passed the Egyptian Spice Bazar on the way (a much smaller version of the Khari Baoli market in Old Delhi).
In clockwise order staring from top left corner - 1) View from Galata Kulesi, Istanbul, Turkey; 2) Candy Shop in Istikal Street, Istanbul, Turkey; 3) Fishermen lined up on Galata Bridge, Istanbul, Turkey; 4) View of Hagia Sophia from the cruise on Bosphorus, Istanbul, Turkey
The one ubiquitous creature in Istanbul is the cat. They are simply everywhere. You will find them resting on benches, crossing over the busiest streets, enjoying a piece of meat under the table or simply resting in the lap of humans to catch an afternoon nap.
As the sun was about to set, it was time for the cruise on the Bosphorus. Istanbul from the water is so much more stunning. The cruise took us through all the main historical sites on both the European and Asian side. I couldn't have asked for a more heart warming end to our beautiful Istanbul tour and bid goodbye to the wonderful Mehmet.
We ate in one of the local restaurants that night. Vegetarian food is a little difficult to come by. But the locals always made us feel at home. Despite understanding very little of English, they always conjured up whatever best they can without meat in it. A cat found a way to my lap but soon lost interest. I had lentil soup and shakshuka to its dismay.
Day 5 to 7 - Flying high in Cappadocia
I have a grim look on my face as I pack my bags and long for just one more day in Istanbul. But atleast we have the afternoon to ourselves before we board the flight to Nevsehir.
We spend the last few hour trodding aimlessly on the streets. There is nip in the air which says the winter is not far. Sun on my face feels good and so does the kahve (coffee) in my hand. We sit on a bench and the Sehzade mosque looms over at the back. It was a moment of no importance but it comes back to me every time I think of Istanbul.
Starting from left -1) Shehzade Mosque, Istanbul, Turkey; 2) Dome of Shehzade Mosque, Istanbul, Turkey
It is already night when we land in Nevsehir airport. Our boutique hotel is a short ride and we are glad to hit the bed. We have an early morning hot air balloon flight. It is the very reason Turkey made it to my bucket list. My husband and I had taken a hot air balloon flight in Lonawala (Maharashtra, India) in 2016 and it was a fascinating trip. The pilot, who was from Cappadocia, convinced me that the hot air balloon flight in his native place is simply unparalleled. And here I am after 6 years making that wish come true. An early morning ride to the balloon site gave us a glimpse of what Cappadocia had to offer. The landscape is nothing like I have seen before. Big rock cut structures jutted above the ground, but I had my eyes on the skies. As the balloon made its way through mountains and valleys, the sun rose and covered everything in a shade of yellow and orange. Our lonawala pilot was right. It was simply unparalleled.
Hot air balloon flight, Cappadocia, Turkey
After we dressed and bathed, Jihad was awaiting us. Jihad looked more American to me than Turkish. He told us that he had Kurdish blood in him. He was a middle aged man. He had travelled across the world (including India), shot documentaries, fallen in love with a beautiful woman, married her, but is now divorced. He also never missed a chance to make a conversation with pretty receptionists and other tour guides on our journey.
We started our tour with the Uchisar palace, which was right next to our boutique cave hotel. It is not a palace in the traditional sense, but is rather a rock formation with numerous underground passageways and rooms, which are now mostly blocked or impassable. But, they served as residential areas and, perhaps, cloisters in Byzantine times. From a distance, it seems as if someone has made numerous holes in a tall mountain. It is an amazing example of the topography of this region. The locals also live in similar albeit smaller stone houses carved in the rock formations. A lot many of them have also been commercialised and serve as hotels now.
The next stop was Pigeon valley, which gets its name from the thousands of Dovecotes (nest for domesticated pigeons) that were dug out into the cliff of the valley by the farmers of Cappadocia to collect the guano (droppings) and fertilise the farms in the past.
We travelled to the famous Pashabagi fairy chimneys and I was completely blown by what I saw. There were these tall mushroom like rock formations, which are strange but totally captivating. I have not seen anything like this before. The formation of this strange landscape started during the third geological period, when three volcanoes located on the edges of this region began erupting frequently. The deposits of volcanoes ash, lava and basalt laid the foundations for today's landscape. Earthquakes and ongoing effects of erosion have contributed to form the valleys and the "fairy chimneys" that can be seen today. As the rock below the top layer of basalt is extremely soft, it can be easily carved. Communities took advantage of this to make their home in the rock pillars and under the ground. Today, these examples of homes, churches and whole cities are abound in Cappadocia.
Next, we visited the Goreme Open Air Museum. The museum is a collection of rock-cut monasteries and churches with beautiful frescoed walls and ceilings built by the Cappadocians in the early 10th century. Not very far from here is Avanos, the historic Pottery Town of Cappadocia. Avanos was established by the Hittites more than 3000 years ago on banks of Red River (Kizilirmak). The sight of a quaint small village on the banks of a lazy stream was absolutely picturesque. The inhabitants of Avanos have been producing pottery and tiles since forever. They export pottery to the western countries and are well known for their beautiful handiwork.
Our final stop for the evening was the Dervent valley (also called as Pink or Imagination valley) with its famous pink rock formations. It is righty called an imagination valley as many of the rock formations remind you of something or someone from real life. The most famous rock formation is that of a camel in a sitting position.
Starting from left -1) Uchisar Castle, Cappadocia, Turkey; 2) Kizlirmak or Red River, Cappadocia, Turkey
We bid goodbye to Jihad for the day but not before he gave us some history lessons. We found an empty place in the shade and he drew a map of Cappadocia on mud. As he began to explain its vastness and unique topography, I did realise there is no greater teacher than travel.
We were absolutely delighted by the breakfast spread the next morning. It was as lavish as it could get. Eggs, cheese, breads and jams of all possible types were laid in front of us. After struggling to find a vegetarian spread in the dinner last night, this was no less than a feast. After our bellies were full, we joined Jihad to discover more about Cappadocia's unique landscape.
We started with Derinkuyu underground city, a large underground shelter which can house 20,000 people comfortably with their livestock and food storage. It is said to be connected to other underground cities in the region through tunnels. We then drove to Ihlara valley, a canyon that was formed by the Melendiz River in pre-historic times. We trekked through the forest along the Melendiz river to the Belisirma Village. The trek was absolutely enchanting. The only noises that broke the silence were that of the river gushing against the rocks, the wind hustling through the dense trees or a bird merrily chirping, sitting on a broken branch by the river. After about an hour, we were in the Belisirma village where the locals served us food in shacks built over the river. We sat on the mattresses laid around the table, and enjoyed our lunch with a view.
The last stop for the day was the Selime Monastery. I was not too excited to make the climb as I had seen enough rock palaces and structures, but Jihad nudged me. As I climbed to the top, the vast panorama of Cappadocia's unique topography was on display. I saw swathes of empty land, dotted with huge rocks, but little flora and fauna. It is the rocks and emptiness that lend Cappacdocia its beauty. The desert, marvellous rock formations and the setting sun make a perfect recipe for the eyes.
We thanked Jihad for being a wonderful host and guide, and retired for the day. My legs ached and my head was heavy from walking in the sun. But my heart brimmed with warmth and love for not just the place but also its people. We were made to feel at home at the farthest and strangest places. It reinforced my faith in humanity.
Day 8 - 9 - Antalya and the Mediterranean
After a two hour delay, the airplane finally landed adjacent to the mediterranean sea. To say I was excited was an understatement. Our hotel was right next to the mediterranean and we had an unobstructed view of the sea and the western range of Taurus mountains. This was a welcome change after the vast brazen lands of Cappadocia. We spent the rest of the day walking and exploring the city centre and markets. We found a joint that had good vegetarian options and that became my go-to place for all meals during out stay in Antalya. The owner was a sweet lady who ran the restaurant pretty much by herself. She spent the evenings on the porch smoking and chatting with her neighbour. The hordes of tourists didn't bother her. She seemed at peace with herself and her surroundings.
The next day we met our guide who hardly spoke any English. So we explored the sites on our own. Antalya is a beach town, but was an important historical centre as well. We started from Aspendos amphitheater and I was surprised as to how well preserved it was. It was built in 2nd century AD and is a fine example of Greco-Roman architecture. Our next stop was Perge. It has ruins of the ancient Greek and Roman worlds. It is very much like Hampi in Karnataka (India), but not so well preserved. We drove from there to Duden waterfall and then finally to Kaleici, which is the historic city centre of Antalya. Until modern times, almost the entire city was confined within its walls. It has structures dating from the Roman, Byzantine, Seljuk, Ottoman and modern Turkish republican eras. While some of the traditional Turkish homes are occupied by residents, many have been converted into boutique hotels, restaurants and shops selling handicrafts and other folkloric arts. We asked our guide to drop us and leave so that we can walk at leisure. We had cay (chai in Turkish) and roamed around the streets of the old city. We walked back as the sun set over the sea. The vibe of the place was so relaxing after our back to back travel in the past week.
In clockwise order staring from top left corner - 1) Aspendos Amphitheater, Antalya, Turkey; 2) Duden Waterfall, Antalya, Turkey; 3) View of Mediterranean Sea from Ramada Antalya, Turkey; 4) Kaleici, historical city centre of Antalya, Turkey, on the banks of Mediterranean Sea.
In the night when my husband was asleep, I tiptoed to the balcony and saw moonlight shine on the waters of the mediterranean. These are the moments I live and travel for.
We fly to Izmir the next day. Little did I know that this last leg of the trip will be the highlight of the entire tour
Day 10 - 12 - Kusadasi and the right kind of 'blues'
We landed in Izmir and drove to Kusadasi, a quaint small town at the banks of the Aegean Sea. It is a jumping-off point for visiting the classical ruins at nearby Ephesus (or Efes), and it is also a major cruise ship destination. Our hotel was right on the shores of the sea, which was as blue as it could get. We spent the rest of the day sitting in the open sea facing restaurant and marvelling at the beautiful hues created by the setting sun.
View of Aegean Sea from room balcony in Charisma De Luxe Hotel, Kusadasi, Turkey
Our guide here was a beautiful lady named Ishik. I asked her what her name meant and she said it meant "The light" in Turkish. She had a young daughter and was twice divorced. She had travelled across Europe, but settled down in this quaint town. She said she liked the slow pace of life here that gives her more time for herself and her daughter. And I couldn't agree more. This town gave me a sense of deja vu. As if I have been here before. Something very cosy and familiar. We spent the evenings walking across the promenade along the sea. We stopped for savouries and hot chocolate. The evenings were colder but lively. Tourists thronged the eateries next to the sea. It was the right mix of food, people and weather. I never imagined this small and insignificant dot on the map will have my heart.
We started our tour next day with a day trip to Pamukkale. It is about three hours drive but completely doable. Pamukkale has thermal waters flowing down white travertine terraces and makes for a beautiful sight. The white calcium formations on slope of Hierapolis, an ancient city, has small pools full of hot spring water. However, our guide pointed out that it is not the same as before. The water quantity in these natural geysers has dwindled and the state authorities now regulate the supply of water artificially. If you are lucky and end up visiting the place on a day when the water has been pumped in, the views will be much better. We dipped our feet in the water but the sun was hot. We left the place to explore the other nearby wonders.
Hierapolis was founded by the Attalid kings of Pergamom at the end of the 2nd century B.C. Remains of the Greco-Roman period include baths, temple ruins, a monumental arch, a nymphaeum, a necropolis and a theatre. Much of it is broken and in ruins, but worth the visit. Pulto's gate or Ploutonion at Hierapolis was revered as Gateway of Hades and has some interesting myths and folklores attached to it. It was late evening by the time we were back at the hotel. We sat in the balcony and enjoyed the glorious views.
The next day we started for Ephesus. It was the very reason we landed in this small town. The ruins were a short 20 minutes drive from where we stayed. Ephesus was a very prominent city of ancient Greece and was later conquered and integrated within roman empire. It has the temple of Artemis, one of the seven wonders of ancient world. It is also an important seat of early ages of christianity, visited by apostles Paul and John, and the latter is believed to be buried here. House of Virgin Mary is where Mother Mary is said to have spent her last days. This site is now a very prominent pilgrimage for christianity.
Starting from left -1) House of Virgin Mary, Izmir, Turkey; 2) Ephesus ruins, Izmir, Turkey
The architecture of Ephesus is a wonderful fusion of greco roman world. It declined as silting led to the city losing its port. So much history in one place makes it unique and beautiful.
Our last stop of the day and of the tour was Sirince village, an ancient Greek village with beautiful greek houses and little village bazaar and wineries. There is not much to see here, but you can buy souvenirs to take back home.
We told Ishik that it was she who made us fall in love with this place. Her warmth and knowledge led us to having long conversations on everything under the Sun, and I would always cherish it.
As I packed my bags, the realisation dawned. I hate it when trips end. But my husband was more chirpier than usual. As if he was secretly smiling. He was looking forward to come back to the familiar warmth of home, while I gazed dreamily at the Aegean. For me, this was home.
Travel tips
Start of October felt like the right season. Less crowd and pleasant weather. It starts to get more colder towards the end of the month.
Vegetarian/Vegan food is a little difficult to come by, but most places are likely to serve soups and shakshuka with bread.
All the main tourist cities are quite modern and you can dress up the way you want. For mosques, your arms, legs and head should be covered. Wearing a jumpsuit and pairing it with a stole would be a smart choice.
We took flights to travel from one city to the other within Turkey, but you can very well take the road. Flights, however, are very cost effective and save time.
Istanbul has a good public transport, but you might need private vehicles in most of the other cities.
A guided tour is recommended in Istanbul and Ephesus. It will help you skip the line and make sure you do not miss any important sites. The queue at Hagia Sophia and Blue Mosque is really long unless you avail skip the line.
Riding the hot air ballon is a matter of good weather and luck. But Cappadocia is worth visiting without it as well
Most places accept cards for payment, but keep some cash handy as well. Currency exchangers are available in all the cities, but Istanbul offers the most competitive rates. Exchange in the main city and not at the airpot.
Both Turkcell and Vodafone work throughout Turkey. You can buy the sim in Istanbul at the start of your tour.
If you are more inclined towards history, you can skip Antalya. But if you are more inclined towards beaches, you can skip Ephesus and add Bodrum and Fethiye to your itinerary.
People are warm and friendly but do not speak English. An English-speaking guide surely comes handy.
Turkish tea cups and saucers are very unique and worth buying. Turkish delights and chocolates are delicious as well. All the cities have multiple tourist shops with options to buy souvenirs.
Minimum 10 days are needed to cover all important sites. If you have two weeks, then you can do it in a more relaxed manner
Hotels we stayed in:
Holiday Inn Istanbul - Old City - It is bang in the centre of the old city and you can walk to the grand bazar. There is a big market nearby where you can get everything you want. Restaurants, supermarket and currency exchangers are all nearby
Sakli Konak Cappadocia - A small boutique cave hotel. It is nothing fancy, but the food is good. Vegetarian options are very limited.
Ramada Plaza Antalya - It is a luxury hotel with great amenities. There is a market area nearby where you can shop and eat. Only the high end rooms have direct sea view. The others have a side view of the sea.
Charisma De Luxe Hotel Kusadasi - This is by far the best luxury hotels I have ever stayed in. It has all amenities, including two in-house restaurants, swimming pool, gym etc. All rooms have great view of the Aegean Sea. The main promenade is10 minutes by walk. Multiple options to eat nearby.
Out tour operators - Plan Your Travel - We had an excellent experience with Nikhil and team
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