Prologue: In search of inner peace
This trip had been a special one. Maybe because it came at a turning point in life when I was looking forward to new beginnings after a prolonged period of uncertainty and fatigue. I was newly married and was adjusting to the hustle and bustle that usually surrounds the first year. Then came the second wave of pandemic which was no less forgiving than the first. The fear for life of the loved ones, along with a more than hectic work schedule, had taken a toll. The existential crisis that followed made me quit my full time lucrative job to pursue a career in independent consulting. My husband too took on a new assignment that required us to relocate to Bangalore from Gurgaon very soon.
In midst of this cacophonous melody of life, I decided to find inner peace and tranquility in this small but beautiful hamlet of Kasar Devi, situated on Kashyap hills (Binsar) within the Almora District of Uttarakhand. Binsar was the summer capital of the Chand Kings, who ruled over Kumaon from the 11th to 18th centuries CE
Day 1: The long haul
We hired a cab that will accompany us on our five-day trip to Kasar Devi. We started at five in the morning today from Gurgaon as we had a stretch of 400 kms to cover. We had breakfast on the way at Shiva Dhaba in Babugarh (Uttar Pradesh), which lies between Hapur and Garh Mukteshwar on NH-9. The lansdscape changed from plains to mountains as we crossed Haldwani, but we spent another four hours traversing the mountains. At around 3pm, we finally arrived at hotel Imperial Heights Binsar, which is located right next to the Kasar Devi temple on the Almora - Bageshwar road. The hotel is small, but our room is spacious and has mesmerising views. I am spending the rest of the evening admiring what lies outside the huge French windows and basking under the glory of a starry night.
Day 2: Zero point - the view that eluded us
We had a sumptuous breakfast and left for Binsar wildlife sanctuary today morning. The place is known to attract bird enthusiasts from all over the country. There are secluded cottages and resorts both inside and nearby the sanctuary, if one wishes to explore the wilderness. But, my husband and I are on another mission today - to get a crystal clear view of the snow clad mountains of Panchchuli, Shivling, Chaukhamba, Trishul and Nanda Devi that are usually visible from Zero Point.
We bought tickets at the entry gate and travelled another 9kms inside the sanctuary before reaching the KMNV tourist house, where we parked our car. It is from here that one can embark on a 2kms trek to Zero point. The trek took us through pathways laden with tall deodar tress, which opened up at bends every now and then to give a glimpse of the mighty mountains. Once we reached the point, there was a wooden canopy like structure where once can sit and wait for the clouds to part and reveal the distant snowy peaks. Unfortunately, the luck was not on our side. But, as they say, journey is what matters more than the destination.
On our way back, we had lunch at Mohan's Binsar retreat. It is a bohemian place with good music, good food and rooms for stay. My chocolate smoothie, banana pancake, pizza and the view were all very delicious. We came back to our hotel late evening and stood on the open roof terrace which had a glorious view of the sunset. I kept on looking even as the lights faded, and the skies shone with hues of red, yellow and orange at the same time.
Dinner was special today. The hotel manager (Prashant) arranged the traditional Kumaoni spread for us - Bhatt ki Chutkani (Black Soyabean daal) with rice, Aaloo ke gutke (potato fried in spices) with roti, and bhaang ki chutney (made from leaves and seed of marijuana plant). I am lying on bed with a content stomach and heart.
Day 3: The road less travelled
Today was full of pleasant surprises. I got up early with the rays of the sunlight filtering through the windows. I tip toed to the balcony and saw a cloud bed covering the entire Almora valley in a blanket of white. This was my first and I stared in awe for what was possibly an hour or two. Only when the clouds descended and opened up the lush green valley, I was reminded of today's itinerary.
I had planned to visit either Bageshwar or Jageshwar, but my husband wanted to explore the untrodden path. We had heard of community homes being built near Almora, and always dreamt of having a second home in mountains. This was the perfect opportunity for a field survey. We asked our driver to take us to Lamgara, a small village that housed 'Writer's Village', a sustainable living solution for artists and nature enthusiasts amid beauty and nature. The plot seems to have been abandoned, but the drive was the highlight.
We passed through several small villages (Dhura, Jalna, Aicholi) to reach Lamgara and
were greeted to picturesque scenes all along. There were village women tending to their cattle, men squatting on grass fields enjoying their hookahs, children playing and climbing up on trees, small Kirana shops selling chai, chips and chewing gums, and young girls carrying their daily harvest and casually making their way through treacherous slopes. We finally reached Dol, which has the Kalyanika ashram - a hidden gem if you want to meditate in peaceful surrounding. Even if you are not spiritual, it will be an absolute pleasure to visit the ashram nestled in mountains.
I am back to my room now. As I sit cross legged on the floor gazing through my balcony window, I reflect on today's journey. What is that makes the simple village life so alluring? Maybe it is the bliss and contentment that is all together lacking in our modern world of luxuries.
Day 4: Kasar Devi temple and cosmic energy
We had a lazy start with breakfast in bed. We spent the morning strolling in hotel gardens and feeding the fishes in the pond with freshly baked bread. I look forward to such days in my trip when I can indulge myself by simply doing nothing. But I had saved the best for the last. The Kasar Devi temple, perched on a hilltop at an altitude of more than 2000 metres and a ten minute walk from our hotel, is what enticed me to come to this quaint village. You have to climb a steep set of stairs to reach the temple, but the experience and view more than make up for it.
Kasar devi is famously known for being one of the three places on earth along with Machu Pichu in Mexico and Stone Henge in England under the impact of highly charged geomagnetic fields. These fields are created by cosmic winds and solar rays within the Van Allen Belts discovered by NASA. The phenomenon is believed to generate strong positive energy, thereby creating an environment for spiritual rejuvenation. The basic rock cave structure of the temple is about 2000 years old, while a newer structure in the front has been constructed in 1948. As per mythology, Goddess Durga had reincarnated as Katayayini and had slain two demons know as Shumbh-Nishumbh in this place. Besides the goddess, there is also a Shiva temple here, which perhaps came up around the 1950s.
Kasar Devi has besotted many poets, thinkers, artists, philosophers and spiritual leaders. The place is also famously know as 'Crank's Ridge' or 'Hippie hill', made popular by a band of hippies and mystics who populated this place in 1960s. Swami Vivekananda performed a deep and higher form of meditation here in 1890, as documented in his diary. Other high profile visitors include Rabindranath Tagore, DH Lawrence, Cat Stevens, Bob Dylan, George Harrison, Danish mystic Alfred Sorensen, Harvard psychologist Timothy Leary, who is known for his uncanny ways, Tibetan Buddhism guru Lama Anagarika Govinda and Western Buddhist teacher Robert Thurman (father of the Hollywood actor Uma Thurman). Jawaharlal Nehru also vacationed here at his sister's Vijaylakshmi Pandit's home in Khali estate. The temple still attracts many foreigners, backpackers and bohos
For me, the place brought the peace and serenity I was looking for. We stopped to catch our breath on the steep trek, but the panorama that unfolded when we were at the top made us forget the weariness. We sat on the temple porch for a long time to take in the fresh air and sounds of the nature. Even if one doesn't believe in the mystical aura of this place, the calmness and positive vibes it brings cannot be ignored
On our way back to hotel, we stopped at the 'Star and Pines' Cafe, which was every bit amusing as the hippie hill. It had a boho look with dream catchers, quirky paintings and books on the wall, a cute litter of puppies and an amazingly extensive menu, including traditional Kumaoni meals. We stopped for some Maggi and cold coffee since we already ate in the hotel before we started. There are many other chic cafes and eateries on the way. There all offer 'food with a view'.
I am back in the hotel and packing my bags with utmost reluctance while my husband is flipping through tv channels. Goodbyes have never been easy.
Day 5: Goodbyes are never easy
It is my birthday today and I am spending it where I feel alive the most - on the road. We are on the way back and I have spent the entire afternoon answering calls from well wishers. There is a certain sadness that engulfs me, as I have to go back to the ordinary and mundane life. But I carry along the calm and bliss which I experienced on this journey. After all, inner peace is not bound by place or time - it is simply a state of mind.
Travel Guide
How to reach - If you are based in Delhi-NCR, reaching by road would be the best alternative. We took this route - Delhi - Moradabad -- Rampur -- Bilaspur -- Rudrapur -- Haldwani -- Kathgodam -- Bhimtal -- Bhowali -- Almora -- Binsar. The road is good overall, though there are rough patches once you cross Bhimtal. It is a 11 hour journey, so I would advise leaving early in the morning to avoid city traffic. The nearest railhead is Kathgodam - trains run from New Delhi Railway Station at regular intervals. You will get both private and shared taxis from Kathgodam to Almora/Binsar. The nearest air connectivity is through the Patnanagar airport in Udham Singh Nagar district, Uttarakhand.
When to go: October to December will have the best weather and clear views of the snow capped peaks. April to June will also be pleasant, but it is the peak season and some of the nearby popular hill station can get very crowded, clogging the road to Binsar. Avoid rainy season, though the Kumaon region is much less prone to cloud bursts and land slides than Garhwal
Where to stay:
Budget
Imperial Heights Binsar - https://www.imperialheightsbinsar.in/
Mohan's Binsar Retreat - https://www.mohansbinsarretreat.com/
Luxury
Ayurvaid Kalmatia - https://ayurvaid.com/kalmatia/
The Kumaon - https://thekumaon.com/
What else to do - There are many sight seeing options for every type of traveller while you are staying at Kasar Devi. If you are interested in historical or religious sites, you can visit Jageshwar (35kms), Bagehwar (65kms), Bineshwar Mahadev Temple (17kms) or Chitai Golu Devta Temple (9kms). There is also the lesser known Katarmal Sun temple (90 km) built by the Katyuri kings between 9th to 13th century CE. It is the only other sun temple apart from the one in Konark, Orissa. If you are a wildlife enthusiast, stay close to or inside the Binsar wildlife sanctuary and book safaris or nature walks. One can also combine this trip with other well known hill stations nearby (Nainital - 75kms, Mukteshwar - 60kms, Ranikhet - 50kms and Kausani - 60kms)
Where to eat - Both Imperial Heights Binsar and Mohan's Binsar retreat offer a delectable cuisine in their respective restaurants (Swarnika and Mohan's cafe), which are open to both the residents and outsiders. However, there are numerous cafes on the Binsar road to experience the boho feel of the place - Star and Pines, New Dolma restaurant and Baba Cake are some of the names